Your Guide to Reading Between the Tines

Legumes (Beans and Lentils, Oh My!)

So what’s the buzz on beans? Simply, they are a powerhouse for a vegetarian diet. Beans tend to be very rich in fiber, protein, and folate. That’s a lot of good stuff in a little legume. They are also very versatile—they work well in burritos, in soups, as a side dish, and in salads. If you are one of the poor unfortunates who has been turned off to beans thanks to someone’s wallpaper-paste-like bean dishes in the past, try a few different recipes anyway. Well-prepared, they are delicious. The benefits to beans are immense, and the flavor can vary quite a bit depending on the type of bean and how it is prepared, so keep the faith.

Oh–if you’re concerned about the “musical” nature of beans, I’ve got news for you. That’s not a legitimate excuse anymore. According to new research at Arizona State University, beans are not actually going to make you toot…unless you don’t eat them often enough. All the more reason to dig in! Presoaking the beans also helps with flatulence, as does adding a dash of aniseed, caraway, dill, fennel, or epazote (Mexican oregano) to the pot. Pick your flavor.

I prefer dry beans over canned any day, as I don’t like the mushiness or the tinny flavor you get with canned beans. In addition, most cans are now lined with plastics containing bisphenol A or BPA to prevent corrosion. The problem is that BPA is a chemical with research linking it to cancers, obesity, diabetes, fertility problems, and hyperactivity disorders in children. This BPA study by the Environmental Working Group (EWG) spells out the actual amount of BPA in canned goods and the threats posed. For those of you you like wading through data, EWG provides plenty of BPA statistics to keep you chewing.

If you clicked through to those links up there, your head may be spinning. “Wait!” you call out plaintively. “Isn’t this the SIMPLE Spoonful?” Yup. And the axiom is simple: the less your food is processed before it gets to you, the better off you are. Stick with dry beans. They’re cheaper, not floating in BPA, and use fewer raw materials before they wind up at the market.

So, how about some dinner? Here’s my method for preparing dry beans without needing to be home all day to watch them simmer. You’ll need a pressure cooker, which is a piece of equipment I use at least once a week.

Pour the dry beans on the counter and check for dirt, sticks, and small stones. (They really do happen, so don’t skip this step. It’s like they grow in the dirt or something. Weird.) Also pull any that look mutated.
Sweep the checked beans into a pressure cooker and cover with water. Use your hands to swirl them around and clean them. Pour off the dirty water and refill. Repeat the washing until the water looks clean. For most beans, this is only one washing, but I’ve had some dustier bunches.

After the final rinse, cover with about twice as much water as beans. Pull out and remove any floaters (their floating may mean they had their insides munched by hungry bugs), then let the beans soak for 6-8 hours or overnight. If the beans swell above the water line, you will need to add more water so they are covered.

After soaking, close the pressure cooker and heat over medium-high heat. Once the cooker has started to spit, reduce heat to low (about 2 on a scale of 10) and let the beans cook for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let them cool before opening. Make sure to release the pressure completely according to the directions that came with your pressure cooker before you open the lid. I usually start them soaking at night and then put them on the heat first thing in the morning when I’m getting ready for work. They’re done before I leave the house, and I can reheat and season them when I get home from work. Simple, right?

When You Planned Ahead: Slow-cookin’ Beans

The whole truth is that flavor differences among beans tend to take a backseat to whatever broth, spices, or sauce you cook them in. As a result, try swapping them out on occasion to get a slightly different mix of nutrients. Black-eyed peas, for example, have the market cornered on folate. Flavor notes are next to the beans, along with suggested dishes.

Garbanzos or Chickpeas: This bean is mild-tasting and holds its shape better than most. Try it in hummus, on top of a green salad, or to add texture to chili.

Kidney and Cannellini (white kidney beans): These beans are especially creamy and go well in Italian dishes such as minestrone and pasta e fagioli. Add some to a pasta dish or make a side dish with beans, olive oil, lemon, garlic, and fresh herbs.

Black or Turtle: Black beans taste a little smoky, a little earthy, and they hold their shape well in cooking. Their dark color also marks them as a particularly rich source of antioxidants. Try black beans in your favorite chili recipe!

Pintos: Rich, mild-tasting bean. They mash so well and turn positively velvety. What’s not to love? Melt a tablespoon of butter in a large pot, add some crushed dry chiles and let them brown, then toss in the first ladleful of beans to the sizzling pan. Let it spit and sizzle for a minute before adding more beans, mashing as you go. Add salt to taste, and enjoy.

Lima: I don’t care if you think you hate them. My mother was in love with frozen baby lima beans, and I spent 25 years convinced I hated lima beans. Then, feeling daring one day in the dry goods aisle, I bought some dried limas and cooked them into a soup. Good heavens. Creamy, buttery, delicate, delicious…think about it. That’s all I’m saying.

Soy: Personally, I’m not a huge fan. I think they are overcropped and have contributed largely to the loss of biodiversity in agriculture. If you have your heart set on soybeans or soy products, get them organic. Soy is one of the crops most likely to be genetically modified.

Bodacious Beans: Beans fascinate me. So many beautiful varieties exist. You may find something absolutely amazing at your local farmer’s market or co-op. For example, I’ve found some amazing heirloom beans at Native Seeds in Tucson, Arizona. Delicate Colorado River beans, beautiful scarlet runner beans, spotted Anasazi beans, and so much more. While the beans at Native Seeds are more expensive than elsewhere because of the goals and nature of the organization, the little hole-in-the-wall grocery in Guadalupe near my house also has wonderful desert-adapted tepary beans and Anasazi beans at very affordable prices. They’re regionally-appropriate, high in protein, and particularly mild on blood glucose levels. See what your neighborhood offers. Also remember that supporting heirloom, non-GMO seed varieties helps ensure their continued existence and promotes food security.

Word to the Wise: BE SAFE WHEN SPROUTING BEANS.

Raw or uncooked soy or kidney beans are not safe for human consumption. They contain sufficient levels of hemagglutinin to cause red blood cell clumping and prevent the transport of oxygen to body tissues. These beans are not safe when soaked or sprouted. Hemagglutinin is destroyed by cooking, which is why beans should always be briefly boiled before simmering.

Want to sprout? Try these: Azuki/adzuki, mung, garbanzos/chickpeas, whole lentils (not split—those won’t sprout). Also, bean sprouts can be breeding grounds for bacteria that aren’t so good for you. Rinse well and often during the sprouting process, and keep them in a fairly moderate temperature. To be extra-safe, consider spritzing some lemon juice on your sprouts when you eat them.

When You Need Your Legumes Lickety-Split: Fast-Cookers

Lentils: red, yellow, green, or brown. Lentils are my favorite legume because they’re so delicious! (Not to mention a key part of my beloved Indian cuisine.) They come in a rainbow of colors and can be cooked up without soaking. Even better, they are an amazing source of fiber, iron, and slow-burning complex carbohydrates. Lentils are an outstanding choice for diabetics, hypoglycemics, those with insulin resistance, and anyone worried about the glycemic index. Bring 3 parts water to a boil, then add 1 part lentils and cook until they reach the desired firmness. Split red lentils, the fastest, can be ready in 20 minutes, so dig in!

Mung: These small green legumes only need 4 hours soaking time. They are common in Asian dishes, including Indian daals. They are a good source of protein, fiber and folate, and contain phosphorus, thiamin, and iron.

Want slow-cook beans ready lickety-split?

In a real hurry but had your heart set on some slow-poke beans? Try a hot soak for 30 minutes instead of an overnight soak. Just bring your water to a boil, then pour it over your sorted, cleaned dry beans and let them sit, off the stove, for a half hour. After they have soaked for half an hour, cook in the pressure cooker as described above.

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  1. [...] soup starts with a pound of Colorado River beans which I had soaked and pressure-cooked the day before and then stored in the fridge. I found these beans at Native Seeds in Tucson some [...]

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